2016 trip – Dodecanese Islands

Greekare.us returns



Captain arrives and takes orientation of vessel at 1600 hrs.  Did not see the young un’s after 2000 hrs until 600 hrs Sunday.
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Depart Rhodes 11:30 a.m. after initial trouble with double wound mainsail.  Wind 2-5 mph, water flat,  motored at 1800 -2000 rpm   Average speed 6.5 knots.  Entered Lindos harbor 1638 hrs  Dropped anchor in 12 meters with 45 feet of rode. Crew swimming by 1800hrs   Crew night out for the young un’s many tired faces entering day 3.
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Day 3

GREAT breakfast  at the Village Cafe, best place in Lindhos. Engine run up for 30 minutes to  charge batteries.  zero wind we are going nowhere. Day on the hook, trips to town, crew dinner . Today we lost our crew member Hemant who needed to return to US on important business , we continue without your company which we regret.
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Day 4

We’ve had enough of Lindos, so head off for Khalki . Again no wind but showers are forecast  Up anchor at 7:15 a.m.  Bearing  for Prasson head. motoring at 6.5 knots, pass the headland at 11:00 a.m in building seas. Set sails for wing on wing and maintain average of 7 knots with a following wind of 12 -14 knotts. Storm front build s and we roll in all sails as winds build to 25 knots  with following seas of 6-10 feet. Arrive Khalis T dock at 1535 hrs. Crew enjoying snack when the boat breaks free from lines. Re-tied by !640 hrs.  Damage to starboard quarter


We settle  at Steki bar with the delightful Maria. See the Pictures >

Day 5

Once again we are without any wind but we decide to motor to Simi. Spectacularly attractive harbor town tucked under the Turkish coast. The great news is that we have been informed that the luggage that Bo has been waiting for Delta to find for the last 6 days will be waiting for us there. Finally Bo will be allowed upwind of the rest of the crew  after spending the last 6 days with only two shirts to wear. Of course we’re more grateful that his supply of cooking herbs and spices was safe and intact.
banners-05We took our anchor in at 10:30 hrs and entered Simi harbor at 15:00 hrs. Beautiful day, but a boring and uneventful trip on the motor. Refueled the boat ready for departure. See the Pictures >


Day 6

Due to lack of wind, we decided to stay around Symi (a.k.a. Simi) for another day with absolutely no regret. We did a small hike and grabbed pictures from the other side of the cove. Symi would reminds you of a place in French or Italian Riviera where rich yatches comes in before the sunset days, throw private parties, dancing and singing till late night and sleep through the day time. banners-06See the Pictures >


Day 7

Up anchor at 11:40 motoring to north headland of Simi before setting course for Nisiros. Wind 18-20 seas 4 to 6 foot. Hoisted sail just south west of Turkish headland Palamut Buku. Maintaining 7 knots in building seas. Winds strengthening to 24-28  with gusts to 32. Reduced sail, speeds, upto 8.5 knots.  Wind at constant 30-32 out of the north west, with seas at 8+ feet, require course change to Tilos.  Made Livadhi harbor entrance at 16:00 hrs after bumpy passage. sails down and tied up stern to at 17:00 hrs. banners-07The tired crew settle in for an Italian feast by chef Bo. See the Pictures > 


Day 8

Today we motorsailer to Nisiros. We decided to tie up in Palon, a small village on the north of the island. We enjoyed a huge meal and had wine with an Irish boat crew who had assisted its in tying up.
The partygoers decided to rent a car and drive to Mandraki, an old monastery town in the next bay, but found no night life the full crew drove to mandrake on the morning of da9. banners-08See the Pictures >


Day 9

Drove to Mandraki, and walked the narrow streets of this old town. Walked to the monastery and saw the amazing butters walls that are being built to shore up the collapsing cliffs. Breakfast at a very well renovated olive oil press cafe. Left Palon at 10:15 for Kos. Sailed with a storm jib and 50% main in winds of 15 – 20 mph.. Final north leg to Kos we motored with all sails down. We tied up in Kos at a very modern and expensive marina facility. Fabulous shower facilities were very much appreciated by the crew. the evening was spent walking to the town harbor but Kos is not very appealing town. It is large, without character, and teeming with European package tour tourists. early bed for all.  with the intention of dropping Mario off on Crete the following day to catch a flight back to U.S. banners-09View the Pictures >


Day 10

Departed Kos 11:15 en route to Tilos, where, given the weather forecast, we intended to find a beach for our signature beach bonfire to act as a sendoff for Mario who must be in Rhodes tomorrow for an early morning flight Wednesday. We motor sailed much of the journey but about 7 miles out the winds picked up and we sailed to Omnos Av Antonio, a small almost deserted beach on the north shore, arriving at 16;30 hrs. With winds stronger than forecast at 10 mph, we decided to send a three man party ashore to scope things out, since anchoring in the bay would not be comfortable if the winds picked up further. The shore party took a little too long and by the time they were ready to return, it was becoming dark, and winds had risen to 15 -18. banners-10
Unable to relaunch the dinghy because of pounding surf we no longer had the option of sailing away to the better harbor at Livadhi. The shore party found sanctuary with an old taverna owner ( one of a half dozen buildings) who treated them to a bed in his home, dry clothing and a very generous meal.
The on board party were not so lucky, they all endured a terrible pounding on the anchor as wide of 30+mph and rolling swells buffeted them all night. By 5 am enough of the anchor chain had slipped from the windlass that all crew had to mobilize to stop running on the rocks. A Herculean effort by Bo raised the anchor despite 8 foot swells  and the boat was motored to safety. The full crew were united, thanks given for deliverance and we motored away. View the Pictures >

Day 11

Decision was made to take Mario to Simi to catch a Rhodes ferry for his return flight tomorrow morning. Heavy bean seas and winds of 18 mph made motoring our only option in the time available. About 8 miles out of Simi the wind dropped to nothing and motoring was much more comfortable. It seems the weather gods have decided to screw with us, and the forecasts received so far have been diametrically opposed to what actually happens. That makes sailing a little difficult! Tied up in Simi at 14:35hrs and tearful goodbyes to Mario shortly thereafter. banners-11


Day 12

Layover in Simi. Scoured the town for material to try and make repairs to the boat to fill the scratches we caused. Individual downtime.


Day 13

Anchor up at 10:30 for sail to Rhodes.  Light winds to begin, then freshening. Unfortunately the problems with the mainsail mast furling that have persisted through the vacation were present again. To avoid the possibility of tearing the main, we elect to motor to Rhodes. Tied up in Rhodes at 15:00 hrs  Great dinner in old town Rhodes. Up early tomorrow to see off two of our crew.


Day 14

Very early departure of Monga and Bo as they head home. Remaining crew have an early breakfast. Negotiate return of boat to charter company. Dinner in town and two more crew scheduled for 4 a.m. departure tomorrow as we all head home.


Day 15

Goodbye Greece you were perfect host, and as charming as ever



Visit The Old Trevelog

Copyright: Pradyot Rai

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